National Geographic : 1922 Jun
TIlE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE that seemed like children's boats floating on the Blosporus. Then we turned our backs on the view to walk about the decaying buildings and gardens that once saw a court life whose magnificence has scarcely been equalled by any other country in the world. The gardens lay deserted in the sunlight, ex cept for two old eunuchs who walked across the grounds toward the still beau tiful Bagdad Kiosk. CONSTANTINOPLE S BAZAARS The bazaars have always been a feature of the life that lies between Turkey and India, and modernity has not changed them. Pera has one which occupies the middle of Step Street, leading up from Galata. Last year the Russians took the last of their trinkets here and sold them for food. A still larger street bazaar in Stamboul is known as the Manchester Market, be cause practically all the cotton goods sold to the crowds of women and girls come from Manchester, England. According to a leading English merchant of Pera, nearly $5,oo0,000 change hands here every day. The most famous bazaars, however, were built by Sultan Bavazid II between the second and third hills of Stamboul and cover several acres of ground. There are 4,000 shops and a hundred entrances in the great stone building. It may look like a fortress from without, but once in side it becomes a noisy, multicolored laby rinth of streets, columns, squares, and fountains, under an arched roof. Here, amid a babel of all languages, rich merchants and ragged refugees alike are solicited to buy soft rugs from Bok hara, gay lBrusa silks, blazing jewels of odd cut, shawls from Persia, yellow and black amber, intoxicating perfumes, cof fee-cups of beaten gold. pearls like milk and roses, sewing-machines, egg-beaters, granite pans, and old Turkish costumes, which the shopkeeper tries to sell as kimonos. Few buyers are in the bazaars these days, for the time has passed when a pasha could afford to send his whole harem shopping under the eye and whip of the head eunuch. The bazaars have come upon hard times. The American tourist is barred because of the war be tween Turkey and Greece, and the sol diers and refugees turn out their pockets and laugh when they are exhorted to buy. The white marble palaces which line the Bosporus are no longer used by sultans, pashas, and beys. They are in a sad state of dilapidation, and some of them are oc cupied by French and Hindustani troops, or by Allied officials. The Sultan lives in seclusion at Yildiz Palace. In pathetic contrast with the splendor and pomp that used to attend his weekly visit to some city mosque is the shabby parade that now marks his drive to prayers each week at Yildiz mosque, perhaps two hundred feet from his palace door. A few visitors still collect in the waiting-rooms of the palace to see him go by, staring through the windows at the short line of cavalry, the straggling band, and the few foot soldiers, in uniforms of Teutonic cut, who assemble to salute their ruler with methodical cheers. Perhaps nothing is so typical of the change that has come to Turkey as the contrast between the ceremony of old and the present sad function. The furnish ings of the room facing the terrace, where princes and potentates have waited in the past, breathless at the luxury surrounding them, are now worn and shabby. French furniture sags on legs from which the gilt has been rubbed. A black stovepipe at tached to a tile stove mars a corner. A Turkish admiral in white linen and a young officer, the only governmental rep resentatives present, were the only visitors to be served coffee. When the Sultan drove by at last, saluting from his vic toria, he saw only a handful of troops where his predecessors had proudly ig nored men who packed the roadway with their pennant lances. Notice of change of address of your GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE should be received in the office of the National Geographic Society by the first of the month to affect the following month's issue. For instance, if you desire the address changed for your August number, the Society should be notified of your new address not later than July first.