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National Geographic : 2002 Dec
Contents
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC From the Editor I just got a glimpse of the real Hawai'i, the one few tourists see. Eighteen kupuna (or elders, known to all as aunty or uncle) gave me the rarest of invitations: to join them on a trip to Moloka'i's Kaupoa Beach Village to dance, eat handmade poi, and "talk story"-to exchange memories of the old ways. We talked over the noise of the engine of the school bus as it wound down the hills to the sea (that's me under the arm of Aunty Theo Purdy). Soon the kupuna, members of a senior program dedicated to preserving native Hawaiian cul ture, pulled out guitars and ukuleles. Above the clatter and the whine of the bus rose the sweet sound of music. The voices swept years from their faces, and I imagine from mine too. We arrived at the ocean, and Aunty Edna Cathcart chanted a Hawaiian greeting to our host, Pilipo Solatorio, offering him a gift, or ho'okupu, of food wrapped in ti leaves. As Pilipo chanted his welcome in return, the aunty wept. The chant, the gift, the music-all was executed according to strict form, as it would have been done centuries ago. This link with the past would survive. The love and respect the kupuna shared that day will always define for me the spirit of aloha. But here's the remarkable part: Until they joined their senior program, many of these kupuna couldn't have performed these chants or made poi by hand. They'd lost touch with their heritage. Will the ways of the Hawaiians survive? Now that I've met the kupuna, I'm more confident of that. Decide for yourself after you read Paul Theroux's report beginning on page two. zs4 >&4 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC * DECEMBER 2002 WILLIAM L.ALLEN Editor in Chief BERNARD OHANIAN, Associate Editor ROBERT L. BOOTH, ManagingEditor SENIOR EDITORS DON BELT, Geography and World Affairs WILLIAM T. DOUTHITT, Story Development JOHN A. ECHAVE, Research GrantProjects CHRIS JOHNS, Illustrations KENT J. KOBERSTEEN, Photography LISA MOORE LAROE, Staff Writers VALERIE A. MAY, New Media PETER MILLER, Expeditions JOHN G. MITCHELL, Environment OLIVER PAYNE, Manuscripts CONSTANCE H. PHELPS, Design LESLEY B. ROGERS, Research CHRISTOPHER P. SLOAN, Art EDITORIAL Assistant Editors: Joel K. Bourne,Jr., Mike Edwards, Hillel J. Hoffmann, Peter L. Porteous, Jane Vessels. Articles Editors: LynnAddison, Glenn Oeland. JenniferReek. Senior Writers: John L. Eliot, Alan Mairson, CathyNewman. Tom O'Neill, Cliff Tarpy, BorisWeintraub,A. R. Williams, Margaret G. Zackowitz.Writers: Glenn Hodges, Michael Klesius, Karen E. Lange, JenniferSteinberg, Lynne Warren. Research: Senior Researchers: ElizabethConnell, Victoria C. Ducheneaux,AliceJ. Dunn, PatriciaB. Kellogg,KathyB. Maher, BarbaraW. McConnell, Mary McPeak, Jeanne E. Peters. AbigailA. Tipton, David W. Wooddell.Researchers: Jennifer L. Fox, Nora Gallagher, Mary Jennings,P. Davida Kales, Marisa J. Larson, Cathleen S. ULineberry,RobinA. Palmer, Heidi Schultz, Christy Ullrich. New Media: Cassandra Franklin-Barbajosa,Senior Writer; Amanda MacEvitt, Producer.TV Liaison: Carol Kaufmann ILLUSTRATIONS Photography: Susan A. Smith, Asst. Director; Photographers:William Albert Allard, Jodi Cobb, Michael Nichols, Mark Thiessen. Photo Engineering: LawrenceB. Maurer. Editors:Dennis R. Dimick, Asst. Director:Bert L. Fox, Todd James. Elizabeth Krist, Kathy Moran. Kurt F. Mutchler,Christopher Scaptura. Susan Welchman.Design: Robert Gray, David C. Whitmore,Asst. Directors; Elaine H. Bradley.Designers:Betty Clayman-DeAtley,Jennifer C. Christiansen,Beth Laundon;Janel Kiley.Art: JohnR. Anderson, Jr., Jeffrey L. Osborn, Asst. Directors; Kris Hannah; ChristopherA. Klein, Artist; DarcyJ. Bellidode Luna, Ellie Boettinger, AnnR. Perry, Research. Engravingand Printing: Janet C. Evans, Director;George Bounelis, Judy L. Garvey, William D. Reicherts EDITORIAL SERVICES Administration: Marisa Domeyko. Staff; Maria Teresa Lawrence, Business Manager; BrianE. Strauss, Electronic Publishing;SandraM. Dane, Luz Garcia, Artemis S. Lampathakis. Scheduling: Carol L. Dumont, Director. Communications: Mary Jeanne Jacobsen, Vice President; BarbaraH. Fallon, BarbaraS. Moffet, EllenSiskind. Image Collection: MauraA. Mulvihill, Vice President; William D. Perry, Sales: Carolyn J. Harrison,John A. Rutter. Information Services: Correspondence: Joseph M. Blanton,Jr., Director; CarolStroud, Lisa Walker. Librariesand Indexing:Susan FiferCanby, Director;Renee Braden, Ellen D. Briscoe, Janet Dombrowski,BarbaraP. Ferry, Anne Marie Houppert, Ann E. Hubbs. Translations:KathrynA. Bazo, Director;SigridBlock. Travel: Cristine E.Ghillani PRODUCTION SERVICES Hans H. Wegner, Director.Pre-Press: Martin G. Anderson, ClaytonR. Burneston,Phillip E. Plude, BernardG. Quarrick.Printing: JosephM. Anderson, EdwardJ. Holland,Ronald E. Williamson.Quality: Peg M. Crawford MAGAZINE PUBLISHING Advertising: Stephen P. Giannetti, Vice President and Publisher.Associate Publishers:Sean Flanagan. JohnG. Huber.International: Michel Siegfried. Regional Managers:Philip G. Reynolds,Midwest; Johnlavarone, Detroit; Ron Bottorff, West; JohnPatten, Eastern; BobAmberg, Southeast. Washington:Directors: Pandora B. Todd, Marketing; Margaret Robertson, Operations; Gail M. Jackson, Production; PeggyShughrue Walz, Special Events. Circulation: Vice President: Kitty Carroll Colbert. Directors: ElizabethM. Safford, North America;John A. Seeley, International. Member Services: Directors: Christina C. Alberghini,North America; Myra A. McLellan, International
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