National Geographic : 1952 Sep
330 Explorer MacMillan and Wife Visit the Author at Castine, Maine, Their Summer Home Comdr. Donald B. MacMillan (left) helped Admiral Peary discover the North Pole in 1909. Recently he completed his 29th Arctic voyage. Author Tom Horgan (right) owns Nomad. American Sailor (left), a World War I cargo ship, trains Merchant Marine students at Maine Maritime Academy, Castine (page 369). Malaga, the smallest island, is joined to Smuttynose by a breakwater built in 1820 by Samuel Haley, who financed the work with four bars of pirate silver he found beneath a rock. Since our visit, a new treasure search has been undertaken. During the latter part of the 19th century the Isles of Shoals were one of the most popu lar summer resorts on the coast, attracting many prominent artists, authors, and musi cians. Now chief activity centers on Star Island, where Unitarians, Congregationalists, and other religious groups convene for sum mer conferences in the huge, rambling Oceanic Hotel. Candlelight services are held in a little stone meetinghouse atop the highest point. The night we anchored, a procession was winding from the hotel to the meetinghouse, the wor- shipers' lanterns blinking like fireflies along the rough path. On Star Island also is Miss Underhill's rock, mentioned by Nathaniel Hawthorne in his American Notes of 1852. According to Hawthorne, the island schoolteacher was gaz ing out to sea from this lookout when a great wave enveloped and carried her away. John Paul Jones's Ranger Built Here At Portsmouth, on the New Hampshire mainland, we picked up the Piscataqua River's incoming tide, and that, rather than the breeze, carried us upstream to the hospitable Portsmouth Yacht Club. Across the river lay Kittery, Maine, the U. S. Naval Base on Sea vey Island, and Pull-and-be-damned Point, so called because it is impossible to row past against the tide.