National Geographic : 1970 Jan
Nineteenth-century sanctuary of art and learning, Museum Island in the Spree River suf fered artillery hits in the last days of World War II. Now in the East, the Alte-or Old-Mu seum, decorated by this bronze Amazon battling a tiger, reopened only in 1966. The Dom, once the major Protestant cathedral, remains unrestored. Some see irony in the cross of reflected The years of Nazi oppression still darken the memories of Berliners. After the war, Ber tolt Brecht, the antifascist playwright, settled in East Berlin and founded one of Europe's noted theaters, the Berliner Ensemble. Today his widow runs the theater. In recent years it has played a smash hit to packed houses: The Resistible Rise of Arturo Ui, a power ful indictment of the Nazi era (pages 16-17). Oddly, regulations, which permitted me to photograph the play, forbade my making 14 pictures of the audience responding to it. A stronger indictment of the Nazis lies not far away. The Ulbricht government, as part of its propaganda, pays fastidious attention to the details of the Nazi era. The infamous concentration camp called Sachsenhausen lies a half-hour drive to the north of the city. It is maintained as a memorial. On Sundays,young East Berliners flock there, along with tourists from the Soviet Union, Hungary, Czechoslo vakia, and Poland.