National Geographic : 1975 Apr
houses, neatly quilted patterns of gardens and fences and a way of life that's hardly changed in generations. Try your hand at jigging for cod. Even if you don't catch a thing, it's worth it just to listen to local yarns while the boat rides the gentle swell. And don't overlook the inte rior of Newfoundland. One third of it is lakes, rivers and streams that teem with Atlantic salmon and all kinds of trout. When you leave (by ferry from Argentia or Port aux Basques) your parting should properly be commemorated with one last chorus of "The Squid Jiggin' Ground" and one final glass of Newfie Screech, a rum with the kick of a mule. You raise your glass and say: "I looks towards ye!" and receive the response: "And I bows accordin!" In Newfoundland, there's no such thing as a stranger. Skilled craftsmen will explain their A brave past re-lived in a Military work. The Studio, St. Mary's Bay, Tattoo on Signal Hill, overlooking Newfoundland St. John's, Newfoundland. What to do and see in St. John's. Walk down Water Street. It's the oldest street in North America. Climb Signal Hill to see Gibbett Hill (where malefactors once were dealt with), the Queen's Battery, Cabot Tower and the Marconi Monument, where the first trans-Atlantic wireless mes sage was received. Visit the New foundland Museum and the Arts and Culture Centre, where there's a fine theatre and an excellent art gallery. See the Anglican Cathedral (1816), the Old Garrison Church (1836) and the Basilica of St. John the Baptist. Take a trip to Quidi Vidi Battery. Go to the races at nearby Goulds. Charter a boat at Witless Bay to see the bird sanctuaries or at Long Pond Manuels for tuna fishing. National parks. Gros Morne, 50 miles north of Corner Brook. Spectacular moun tains, marvelous seascapes, fjord like lakes and dense forests. Tents, tent-trailers and trailers. Terra Nova, 145 miles northwest of St. John's. Magnificent fjords, long beaches, spruce forests, unspoiled lakes. Watch for bear, moose and beaver. Fine fishing for brook trout and landlocked salmon. Interpretive program. Outdoor theatre. Cottages and campgrounds, some accessible only by boat. Camping facilities available in most provincial parks. Write the Department of Tourism (address below) for locations and details. Major events. Harness racing, St. John's, June through October. Sailing races, Conception Bay, May through October. Summer Festival of the Arts, St. John's, July. Signal Hill Military Tattoo, St. John's, July-August. Regattas at St. John's, Placentia and Harbour Grace, July-August. St. John's Folkfest, August. For precise dates and details, write the Department of Tourism. Where to stay and what to pay. Some luxury hotels, many good basic hotels and motels ($18-$30) tourist homes (about $8 to $10 per day per person) and housekeeping cottages ($18-$22 per day) are available. Fishing village holidays are also available - they're the Newfoundland version of farm vaca tions. Prices about $50 per week, all inclusive. Full information from: Newfoundland and Labrador De partment of Tourism, Tourist Ser vices Division, Dept. CG2, Con federation Building, St. John's, Newfoundland, Canada. Photographoutport fishing villages like Hibbs Cove, Newfoundland, snuggled against the rocky shore.