National Geographic : 1975 Apr
Advertisement. New Brunswick. A picture postcard province. New Brunswick borders on the State of Maine, so it's the province that most Atlantic Canada visitors see first. Nor could there be a better place to start. With the ocean for a neighbour on three sides, New Brunswick has sweeping, sunny beaches to show you, bustling fleets of fishing boats and an Acadian French culture that's as old and as colourful as the history of this continent. So don't drive too fast. Spend some time exploring the Bay of Fundy shore, where the high tides have carved incredible shapes into the sand stone cliffs. Visit the Fundy Isles of Grand Manan, Deer and Campobello, where Franklin D. Roosevelt's old summer home sits in the middle of a beautiful International Park. See the 1812 timbered blockhouse and shop for homespun tweeds at historic St. Andrews-by-the-Sea. Further along the Bay of Fundy coast is the city of Saint John, which was founded in 1631 but didn't really develop its own special character until after 1783, when 4,200 United Empire Loyalists arrived from New York and Boston, refugees from the turmoil that followed the War of Independence. Walk the 'Loyalist Trail' through Saint John and you'll see some thing of the city they built, or plan your visit for the last week in July and help Saint John cele brate the event with Loyalist Days parades, concerts, sailing races and feasting. As an Amer ican, you'll be more than ordi narily welcome, because this is one of many Canadian celebra tions that link your history with ours. If you follow the Saint John River upstream for a hundred While you're inland, enjoy the peaceful scenery of famous rivers like the Miramichi. On the coast, enjoy great ocean fishing for cod, mackerel, pollock, stripers and tuna. miles, you'll come to Frederic ton, the provincial capital, a gracious city of tall elms and church spires, statues and ele gant Victorian homes. Frederic ton has professional theatre at the Playhouse, an art gallery (the Beaverbrook) where you'll find major works by Gainsborough, Reynolds, Krieghoff and Dali, and the loveliest university cam pus in Canada. Shop for pottery and woven fabrics in the many quality craft studios, and visit nearby King's Landing Histori cal Settlement, where you can see village life the way it used to be in this part of the world between 1790 and 1870. If you're a sportfisherman, you'll already know that New Brunswick offers some of the best fishing on the continent. If you're a salt-water enthusiast, you'll probably make a bee-line for the coast where you'll find deep-sea fishing boats, tackle and expert advice readily avail able in many of the fishing villages. Care to take on a tuna? You'll also find the delight fully friendly descendants of New Brunswick's earliest set tlers. The Acadian French they speak is older and markedly different from the French spoken in Paris or Montreal, but there's no mistaking the genuine warmth of their hospitality. They'll gladly tell you the secrets of their gourmet seafood recipes, and you'll be a very welcome guest at festivals and celebrations all around the coast. There's the Scallop Festival at Richibuctou in early July; four days of feasting and partying at the Shediac Lobster Festival in the middle of the month; and an Acadian Festival of folk songs, dances and sea food at Caraquet, scheduled for August 9-17. They're all much too good to miss. Dig for clams at Buctouche, N.B. Kings Landing HistoncalSettlement.