National Geographic : 1979 Jan
and piles of mangoes and papaws. A few slashes of a machete, and I sipped the re freshing milk of the king coconut. "It flushes the kidneys," said Nowell, "and settles the distressed stomach." With his cultivated tastes, he himself preferred tea-straight. "The British came with a gun in one hand, a Bible in the other, and they put milk in tea," he explained. "Many of us still put milk in tea. I do not." On the road Nowell discussed various considerations to pass the time. Trousers, for instance. "If you wear trousers and speak English," he observed, "people will say, 'Ah, you're a gentleman.' But if you wear trousers and don't speak English, it's show." He was above all this. On the highways Nowell drove in pants; at day's end he wrapped his skinny frame in a sarong. "The world's best pajamas," he said.