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National Geographic : 1993 Apr
Contents
their lurching 20-foot home moored near the Tahrir Bridge. I could smell food being cooked on open fires and the damp, fecund smell of the Nile itself. "Buy some magazines," said a kid no more than eight, following with a question before I had time to decide. "Do you want to smoke something?" The bright-eyed boy showed me a grimy sheaf of old Time and Newsweek magazines and indicated a freestanding hashish pipe nearly as tall as himself on the muddy levee. I wondered how badly anyone would want an illegal smoke in full view of six high-rise hotels. From one of the boats I heard a mother shouting at one of her children, then the sound of squalling babies. The misery was plain, and yet the string of laundry drying on shore was very white, and one of the boys selling hashish spoke proudly of his father: "He is an important fisherman." Hardly less conventional was the shelter provided for a half mil lion Cairenes by the Northern Cemetery and Southern Cemetery, also known as the City of the Dead. These gigantic graveyards on 54 National Geographic, April 1993
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