National Geographic : 1981 Sep
necessarily the warden with the most memo randums in his briefcase but the sort of part ner you would hope to have in your canoe on any tough, bunched-up piece of water. After we spread all our gear out to dry in the eve ning, I was happy to discover that this su perintendent can also cook bannock as well as any frontiersman who ever flipped the camp bread in a skillet. There was leftover bannock the next day when we stopped opposite the incoming Caribou River for lunch. A hoodooed lunch. Looming above us was an entire mountain side of dark winglike vanes and pillars as tall as 50 feet. By lunchtime the day after that we were parting company near the juncture of the Flat and the South Nahanni. Lou and Ray planned to patrol their way back to Na hanni Butte headquarters. Loren and I had a floatplane to meet, one that would take us the opposite direction toward Rabbitkettle Hotsprings. THE RABBITKETTLE AREA marks the point at which both the South Na hanni and most visitors enter the park. A large proportion of these visitors arrive here by canoe, having first flown farther northwest to land at a lake called the Moose Ponds and floated down the upper part of Powerful River. For most of its length this nonpark river section goes by the name the Rock Garden. It has also been called the fin est white-water canoeing in Canada. At a park cabin on the edge of Rabbit kettle Lake we met another park warden, Tom Elliot, who went over a list of survival tips and regulations with us, as he does with Men wear the mark of the South Nahanni no less than its canyons. From the Slave tribe ofAthapaskan In dians, 82-year-old Charles Yohin (above) holds memories of winter-long hunts upriver,a lost Slave tradition. Willie McLeod (left) tells of his two gold-prospecting uncles whose fate gave Deadmen Valley its name: Their headless skeletons were found there in 1908.