National Geographic : 1987 May
Bakhchisaray, where stands the last palace of the Muslim Tatar khans, with two slen der minarets rising from its mosque. Yusef never asked his father about the stories of collaboration. "I was not sure I wanted to hear." At any rate, he said, "In every war some people take the other side." The Crimea has no mosque for Yusef and other Muslims. "I only hear the Koran read at funerals. Only the old men know it." THE AEROFLOT PLANE that took me west to Lvov, in what was Po land until 1939 (and Austria Hungary before 1918), banked over a superhighway and high rises. Moder nity, however, has not entered the city core, which escaped damage in the war. Baroque facades, even an occasional Gothic buttress, suggest a European city of, say, 1800. This is the fount of Ukrainian emotion. The Soviet reordering of western Ukraine began in 1939; some businesses were nation alized, priests arrested. It was not finished until after World War II. The way people walk, with a little more dignity, and the way Headingfor the showers, a miner wears the grime of a six-hour shift (top left) in one of the anthracite coal mines that honeycomb the Donets Basin, producer of nearly a third of Soviet coal. Among the highest paid of all industrial workers, miners pay a price.A health-carefacility (left) tests a minerfor bronchitisand black lung. In the rich ironfield adjoiningthe basin, a modem steel mill at Krivoy Rog (right) is a model for streamliningother plants in the heavily industrialized DnieperRiver region.