National Geographic : 1960 Oct
through what was Bengal, Calcutta is cut off from the best jute fields." He pointed to the neat cream-yellow jute miills that line both sides of the Hooghly above Calcutta. "We have the coal and most of the mills, and East Pakistan has the best jute, and the two governments are trying to work together, striving to make the best possible use of their potential." Lower River Like a Huge Stage The tug churned upstream, each bend in the river disclosing a different settle ment. It was like a huge stage, its sets telling the history of European powers in India: the Danes at Serampore, the French at Chandernagore, the Dutch at Chinsura, the English at a port once known as Hooghly, and the Portuguese at Bandel. "According to the local people," said the captain, "there's an image of a saint in the Bandel church that miraculously floated upstream against the current and landed there. If ye were to ask me, I'd say it looks like the prow of an old sail ing ship, probably swept up by a bore. And speaking of bores, we'd better be heading back." As the tug swung downstream, the captain pointed to the eddies swirling in the wake, and Helen and I saw that the tide had turned. KODACHROMESBY BRIAN BRAKE, MAGNUM(ABOVE AND OPPOSITE) AND HELEN AND FRANKSCHREIDER 0 NATIONALGEOGRAPHICSOCIETY Image Maker Decorates a Sinister Goddess Garlanded with stylized skulls, the statues represent Kali, god dess of death and destruction, who usually is shown with tongue extended. Each four armed effigy tramples under foot Time Eternal. A century ago a cult of Kali worshipers known as Thugs terrorized In dia by strangling and robbing travelers. The English word "thug" derives from these as sassins. Bengali Hindus still pay hom age to the goddess by sacrific ing animals to her and by toss ing her image into the Hooghly.