National Geographic : 1968 Jan
In the Footsteps of Alexander the Great demands that the family sacrifice, 40 goats and give a feast for the village. No one can afford that any more. Soon people will forget these old customs." Porters Make Room for Guests We arrived back in Chitral on a balmy Himalayan day, ready to fly to Peshawar. But heavy snows had put Chitral's dirt run way out of service. The agent could not tell us when we might get out. Rather than wait, we decided to climb over the Lawarai Pass toward Dir, where we could get a ride back to Peshawar. Within the hour we and Abdul were in a battered jeep jounc ing over a winter-scarred trail through the Chitral Valley. By dusk we had reached Ash ret, at the snow line. The jeep could go no farther. Abdul hired porters, and we hiked three hours to a resthouse, only to find it covered with snow and closed for the winter. A lantern's gleam led us to a teahouse, crowded with porters waiting to carry loads over the pass. We said we'd sleep on the floor. Somehow, Abdul persuaded the porters to sleep in one room, leaving the other to us. At dawn we set out along a snow-covered trail, climbing an almost vertical ravine. The porters wore thong-wrapped hides on their feet; they seldom slipped. But our rock-climb ing shoes skidded on the icy trail, and prog ress was slow. Abdul, usually patient and cheerful, began to fret. "We must hurry," he urged. "We must reach the top before the sun makes the snow heavy. Two years ago 80 people died here in an avalanche." Descending, we came to a village-lined EKTACHROME(BELOW)ANDKODACHROMEBYHELENAND FRANKSCHREIDER N.G .S.