National Geographic : 1968 Jan
black headdresses covered with cowrie shells. We stared at those headdresses; we had seen similar ones in Greece (pages 4-5). Farther up the path stood a crudely carved figure with a pointed helmet. We had seen helmets like that on the walls of Persepolis. We passed a graveyard. Wooden coffins, mere planks pegged together, lay in a grove of trees; Curtius had written of wooden graves. When we met with the Brumboret village elders, we sat on small chairs. Nowhere east of Turkey had we found village people using chairs, except here and at Kamdesh. The elders' beretlike hats resembled those seen in mosaics at Alexander's capital in Pella and on coins minted in Alexander's time. Abdul translated as we asked question after question. Where did the Kalash people live before they came to Brumboret? "In a place far to the north, beyond the great snowy mountains," an old man replied. Did they know of Alexander? They did not. Yet they made wine, and women danced at night around the fire, as early Greeks had done, and as Moslem peoples around them do not. EKTACHROME (LEFT) ANDKODACHROME © N.G.S. Heavy hand of winter threatens the roof of a Kalash Kafir house in the remote moun tains of northern Pakistan. Isolated Kafir tribespeople retain customs found nowhere else in this area, but akin to those of ancient Greece. The similarity has led to speculation that Greeks may have been exiled here by Persia even before Alexander's time. Open-hearted, open-faced, a Kalash Kafir shows none of the shyness of many Paki stani Moslem women. She carries home wheat flour from a communal grist mill.