National Geographic : 1968 Jul
out early each morning to visit points of interest around the lake, and it became a second home. His wife watches over the books and the buying, his two sisters supervise the twenty-odd rooms and the restaurant, and his mother, well over 80, seldom leaves the kitchen. And what a kitchen! The Caramazza is officially listed as a third-class hotel, but the only thing third-class about it is the price. Our two double rooms with bath, plus breakfast and dinner, came to a little more than five dollars a day per person. The food was superb. Breakfast involved melon, ham and eggs, a great platter of rolls, and fresh sweet butter. Dinner started with soup, ranged through a choice of pasta, a fish course, a roast, fresh vegetables from the albergo's garden, and fruit and cheese. We dined beneath venerable trees on a terrace with a magnificent view of the lake (page 97). If I sound as if Rugged ride has its reward. To reach summer retreats on "their Alp" - a nearby mountaintop-Premanese negotiate almost unbelievable switch backs (left). Turns are impossible. When the jeep in foreground reaches the corner, the driver will back up the next section, as the vehicle beyond is doing. At road's end, a steep hike brings this family to their cottage (above). Shrine honors the Virgin Mary. Together for the weekend, men relate the news from Premana, and the women report on the cows and children -all to the tune of clicking needles.