National Geographic : 1968 Oct
gust will pick the boat up and tip it over. No sails,just barepoles. The sea pours in over the cockpit coaming. Oh, my-this is exciting. The ports have just gone under.Boy, my ears are popping. This is really swinging. Dove came through unscathed, but ashore homes had taken a beat ing. Island chiefs and officials of the territorial government hurried about assessing the disaster. With cameras slung over our shoulders, Jud and I rode buses and hitchhiked to the village of Tula at the eastern tip of Tutuila. Storm damage was terrific, and the islanders' houses and gardens had suf fered greatly. Fallen banana plants and palms lay everywhere. Roofs had taken wing and crashed in splinters. About half the village of Tula had blown away. Happily, Samoan houses are lightly built and inexpensive to re place. Stakes in a stone or coral floor support thatched roofs. Siding of woven coconut fronds pulls up or lets down like Venetian blinds. We joined the communal cleaning-up. Then a gracious Polynesian lady, Mrs. Fa'ava Pritchard (page 455), insisted we have dinner and spend the night with her family in their European-style home-con crete-block walls with window holes but no windows, door frames but no doors. When I told the Pritchards that the name of my boat was Dove, Fa'ava at once spoke up, saying, "We think you also are a flying dove, lupe lele in our language, and we will call you that." Thus I acquired my first island name. KODACHROME(RIGHT) BYROBINLEE GRAHAM(0) N.G.S. Robin's log maps Bligh Water, a dangerous and still only partly charted area named for the British captain of Bounty. Heading into Fiji's Yasawa Group on August 25, 1966, Robin reports: "I left Vomo, 0930. Had a very nice sail (east wind). Arrived Waia [Waya] Lailai, 1300 [1 p.m.]; 6,411 miles"-the distance he had sailed from California. At Durban, South Africa, end of this article, his log read 16,612 nautical miles. Pounding war clubs and chanting battle cries, Fijian dancers in tapa skirts 462 and leaf anklets perform on Kambara Island. Women beat tubular drums.