National Geographic : 1962 Oct
by the snow. Such measurements had never before been attempt ed at so high an elevation. I had the skilled help of Irene Orten burger, a physicist who came up in April with her climber hus band, Leigh (page 529). The results of all our studies will provide the basis for dozens of scientific papers. They are already aiding the work of re search organizations around the world. For example, my solar radiation findings have been put to use by the National Aero nautics and Space Administra tion in its Tiros weather satellite program and its Mercury man in-space project. Silver Hut Crowded With Gear The Silver Hut was no place for a claustrophobia sufferer. Besides eight bunks, a labora tory, a kerosene heater, a dining table, and benches, it was helter skelter with clothes, climbing and medical gear, air mattresses, and sleeping bags. Occasionally mercury was spilled from the physiologists' equipment. Then we had to clean up, for mercury can poison the air in a restricted area. On such occasions we crawled around on hands and knees, chasing quicksilver around the floor and into paper cups to put back into bottles. Pitons, ice screws, and snap links pass muster. Michael Gill, a medical student from New Zealand, girds for the final assault on Ama Dablam, first major Himalayan peak to yield to an attack in winter. Rope harness anchors Wal ter Romanes above a 100-foot drop on Ama Dablam. Pemba Tenzing climbs toward him on a wire ladder. Using iron pegs and rope stirrups, their teammates had blazed a trail up the sheer overhang, which stopped a British expedition in 1959. Mingbo Valley stretches to distant rampart. KODACHROMESBY BARRY C. BISHOP © N.G.S.