National Geographic : 1964 Aug
little village to buy bread, fresh vegetables, and fruit. In the village would stand the town hall with its mansard roof, and the statue which might be a war memorial, a native son, or just a pretty stone swan at the watering trough. The bakery could be found by its fragrant odors; butcher shops and groceries reminded me of the small corner stores of my childhood. I would stuff my purchases into the bicycle's carrying bags and follow the signs back to a lock Irving and I had agreed on. I might even pass Yankee and have the next lock gates open for her. But local produce brought by bicycle to our table in the great cabin didn't supply all our meals. "Shall we stop for lunch?" Irving might ask. On one such occasion Yankee, in the Canal de la Marne au Rhin near Nancy, was above the level of a nearby macadam road. Beside the road we could see the inviting little Res taurant du Menil Rouge, its tables set under a grape arbor. Fishermen, their gear left at the stream behind the restaurant, were put ting away an appetizing meal. "Yes," the Hollands and I chorused. It was easy to tie Yankee to the trees. In France, trees often border the canals as they do the roads. Soon we were breaking crusty French bread while the solicitous waiter proprietor hurried to the kitchen to give the chef-his mother-our order. "I like this better than the famous Paris restaurants," Ed Holland said happily. "And we don't have to dress up." Verdun Honors 500,000 Dead Saint Mihiel! Memories of World War I met us here and lent a somber note to the beautiful countryside. Along the Meuse Val ley, all the way to Verdun, were reminders of 1914-18. By chance we arrived on one of Ver dun's most important days, June 23. On this date in 1916 the French, crying "They shall not pass," turned back the Germans' final thrust just outside the city. Commemorative ceremonies started close by Yankee, snugly tied up in the center of town. There, at the end of the bridge by the city gate, with its rugged 14th-century towers, gathered veterans of Verdun's ghastly battles. Of almost two million men engaged, half a million were killed; French dead alone num bered 150,000 in the months of fighting in this sector; half were never identified. At the battlefield a proud old fighter de 172 Traveling in tandem, Dutch girls of Maas tricht set out for market on a motorbike. Like candles on a cake, Cathedral of St. Bavon (left) and the bell tower of Ghent, Belgium, blaze above buildings frosted with blue light. Statue of Neptune stands above the arched gate of the Fish Market. Giant teardrop of a glass vase elongates face of a worker at the Cristalleries du Val Saint Lambert, near Liege. Belgium's glass industry dates from the 15th century. KODACHROMES N.G.S.