National Geographic : 1964 Sep
waterfront the spicy scent of distant lands it has had ever since clippers returning from China raced up the Bay under stuns'ls and moonrakers. Close your eyes at Pratt and Light Streets when the wind is south; you are in Zanzibar at clove-harvest time. Bethlehem Steel Company, whose Balti more plant is the largest in the country, still lights up the night sky for miles around, when cars coming from the blast furnaces dump the molten slag (page 401). "Half the city must be on fire!" strangers exclaim in alarm. And in a single block of the old German section of Highlandtown, we counted three young women on their hands and knees, scrub bing the white marble steps known the world over as the hallmark of my native city. 408 After Baltimore I had planned to cruise the Chesapeake headwaters-the Middle and Bush Rivers on the Western Shore, the Bo hemia, Sassafras, and Elk on the Eastern. It is delightful country, but a land of wide rivers rather than salt marshes. Delaware and Penn sylvania yachtsmen keep their boats here, and many marinas and shipyards have been built in recent years to serve them. Unfortunately something occurred to change our plans. I quote from the Betelgeuse log: "Wind NW, strong and cold. Lit the coal range in the cabin. Had to take in the mizzen, reef the main, set the forestaysail in place of the big genoa. Two strings of geese flew down from the north. This means autumn. We will call only in Annapolis before going on to win ter quarters at Oxford."