National Geographic : 1965 Aug
The Israelis have announced a plan to divert Jordan water to irrigate the Negev." In nearby Jericho, earth's most ancient town-dating from 7000 B.C., perhaps earlier -we met Mohammed Murshed again. He ushered us into his family's adobe home. "Ah lan wa-sahlan," said his parents. "Welcome." We sat in the largest of the three rooms, on embroidered pillows on the floor. Prayer rugs from Mecca decorated the whitewashed walls. Grapevines overhung the open door. Beyond were the bananas, oranges, papayas, and grain that Mohammed's family had cultivated for generations. From a charcoal brazier came the spicy aroma of makloubeh, the Palestinian dish of eggplant, lamb, rice, and pine nuts. Barbed Wire Divides the Holy City A neighbor joined us after dinner as we peeled large juicy oranges. "You should taste the oranges of Jaffa," he said nostalgically. "I have not eaten them for 16 years, since I left Palestine." The Arabs uprooted from Israel yearn for their birthplace. "We haven't forgotten our homeland," said an old man in a refugee camp near Jericho. At his home, Daret Alkhair, Jordan's English educated King Hussein joins Princess Muna, their son Prince Abdullah, and their Labrador retriever Lucky. The King's 18-year-old brother, Crown Prince Hassan (center), talks with a cousin, Raad Hussein, who serves as His Majesty's secretary. 272 "And we won't let our children forget. We won't be resettled. There are 600,000 of us here in Jordan-another half a million in Syria and Lebanon. Someday we'll go back." Jerusalem, a city as divided as Berlin, lies 3,700 feet above the Dead Sea, near the erod ed western edge of the Great Rift. The new part is Israel's; the old walled enclosure, Jor dan's; the area between, a no man's land of war rubble, sandbagged gun emplacements, and tangles of barbed wire.* From the Mount of Olives we looked down on the domes and spires, mosques and church es of the city that was built by David, glorified by Solomon, destroyed by Nebuchadnezzar. In Jerusalem, ravaged and rebuilt in turn by Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Crusaders, and Saracens, only scattered stones remain of the city that witnessed Christ's triumphant entry and later his tragic march to Calvary. And yet an aura of sanctity prevails. Sacred alike to Moslems, Christians, and Jews, its narrow lanes echo the dark browns, grays, and blacks of the many sects and mo nastic orders that live here side by side. *See "Jerusalem, the Divided City," by John Scofield, NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC, April, 1959. Children of the displaced, youngsters of fami lies from Palestine wander the heights of 'Amman, Jordan's capital. The area has received 200,000 refugees since 1948. Tradition says this is the hill where the embattled Uriah died, sent there by David, who coveted Uriah's wife Bathsheba.