National Geographic : 1951 Oct
40Y Ralph B. Hubbard, Jr. In the Main Cabin, Donald and Miriam MacMillan Plot Bowdoin's Course Guns in foreground will be used to bring back museum specimens-birds, seal, walrus, and polar bear. Books on shelf are part of the ship's Arctic library, studied by crew for background on the places they will see. occasions when only miracles or "MacMillan luck" have done it. We easily picked up Amour Point Light and kept on out the Strait of Belle Isle with no fog. The deep bell tones of welcome from that lighthouse at the entrance to the Strait gave us a feeling of really getting north. Soon we saw our first icebergs, and this year there were many. The cheery little puffins with their black backs, white breasts, and large, peculiar, many-colored bills, popped up and down right under our bow and all around us.* Whales plunged through the calm waters, often killers in search of other whales.t Twisted remains of wrecks reminded us that not always is there fair weather through the Strait. One rusty mass, all that's left of an English warship, H.M.S. Raleigh, has been on the beach at Amour Point since 1922. As we neared the more dangerous stretch of the Strait several hours later, the wind came in dead ahead. Mac called a halt for the night: "We'll go into Chateau." While most of us were admiring a weird looking hill of black basalt, known as the Devil's Dining Table, which towers over the entrance, the man at the wheel was trying hard to keep up with Mac's curt orders "Watch those salmon nets! Port, steady, star board. Slow her down." To get fouled in that maze of nets crossing our pathway would be disastrous to the propeller. At least Jacques Cartier didn't have salmon nets to contend with, I thought, when he made his way into this same harbor over 400 years ago. A Village Made of Stones We went ashore eagerly. From the occu pant of the first house came a genial, "Glad to see yah! Where yah bound? How's the weather to th' suthard? * See "Birds of the Northern Seas," by Alexander Wetmore, NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE, January, 1936. t See "Whales, Giants of the Seas," by Remington Kellogg, NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE, January, 1940.