National Geographic : 1952 May
broidered blouses were gorgeous affairs, and we admired the snug little black bodices. But the grass is al ways greener on the other side. After we had exclaimed at each costume, one of the girls pulled out her greatest treasure: a pair of American-style pedal pushers in dark blue corduroy. Next morning the efficient Danish Tour ist Association knew just which sights of Copenhagen two young ladies would like to see. That is the main shop ping center, said the clerk, underscoring Str0get thoroughfare on our map. There is Georg Jensen's. There is the Royal Copen hagen porcelain shop. He-and we-regret ted that Tivoli, the summertime amuse ment park, had just closed.* On the Radhusplads, or Town Hall Square, Erica photographed children feeding the pi- Bakers of Two Nati geons; then we struck American-born Mrs. out for the water front along her route. On tl and found ourselves on from Ruth Johanesson, Gammelstrand, where the fish market was in full swing (page 695). The Copenhagen fishwives, each straight out of Hans Christian Andersen, wear bonnets made of starched cotton or folded newspaper. They sit along the canal, rain or shine, skin ning live eels to order. Judging by the live liness of the eels, one can be sure of getting fish very fresh in Copenhagen. Near the fish market, on an island formed by canals on three sides and the harbor on the fourth, is Christiansborg Palace, which government offices share with the Royal Rid ing School. We watched a dozen perfectly groomed horses circling the sawdust floor. Copenhagen means "Merchants Harbor," but, if anyone asked me, I'd rechristen it "City of Friendship." If we hadn't had London commitments, we'd probably be there yet. Danes in London had told us about the ex traordinary national talent for making friends with strangers; but we didn't really believe them. Yet before we knew quite how it hap pened, we had moved from the hostel to the 693 © Erica, Tella Studio ons Smile When Their Cookies "Pan Out" Well James, an enthusiastic cook, collected culinary tips all he Stockholm floating hostel she learned pastry secrets the Af Chapman's vivacious warden (page 689). plant-filled, ultramodern apartment of a Co penhagen friend of a London friend (opposite page). We felt like prodigal daughters indeed when our hostess took a day off from work to pre pare a gastronomic grand finale to our Copen hagen visit. Whipped Cream on Soup and Pancakes Ollebr0d, a soup made of crumbled black bread cooked in sweet beer and served with as much whipped cream as the consumer wishes, and chopped beef with onions were the featured dishes, topped off with huge wedges of jam-filled pancake a foot across, embellished with more whipped cream. I learned a lot of basic Danish copying out recipes from our hostess's cookbook, though no one took my interest in food seri ously. * See "2,000 Miles Through Europe's Oldest King dom," by Isobel Wylie Hutchison, NATIONAL GEO GRAPHIC MAGAZINE, February, 1949.