National Geographic : 1952 Jun
where they can buy American lux uries that are denied the Turks. Instead of requisitioning a fine building in Erzurum (and there are not many), they have rented and reconditioned an old hotel as their dormitory and officers' club. In stead of paying American wages and upsetting the economy of Erzurum, they pay their servants and helpers on the Turkish scale. They have trained Turkish boys to cook their meals in American fashion, and what they can buy in the Erzurum markets is good enough for them. All this is being done for a purpose. "I don't know just how much we'll accomplish in a military way," Colonel Frederick told me, "but I do know that when we finish the job here there's going to be respect and good will for the United States among the Turkish people." These ambassadors in khaki made me proud to be an American in a strange land. I was glad to know, after I had come home, that Colonel Frederick and two of his fellow offi cers in Erzurum-Lt. Col. Russell O. Fudge of Wichita Falls, Texas, and Lt. Col. Roy T. Dodge, of Gadsden, Alabama-had received personal letters of commendation from Gen. J. Lawton Collins, Army Chief of Staff in Washington. To Kars by Jeep, the Governor Driving Colonel Frederick saw me off on the day-long road journey from Erzurum to Kars. The Turkish governor insisted on driving our oversized jeep to his new capital and home 125 miles away. For the first 50 miles the road was good (page 757). At Horasan, where railroad travelers have to change to narrow-gauge track, the road became narrow-gauge as well. It was typical of the roads in this part of Turkey, which meant that the original paving blocks had sunk over the years. We lurched and bumped, and sometimes we found it smoother to ride alongside the road through fields of stubble. This was bare, forbidding coun try, with some grazing land on the hills and farming in the valleys. Sometimes, on a rocky crag, we saw the ruins of huge fortresses built 500 years ago; once we saw a crag eroded by the wind until it looked like castle ruins. 759 George Pickow, Three Lions Tall Torch Stands Ready to Signal Border Trouble This emergency flare, a pole wrapped with dry grass, rises about 100 feet behind the barbed-wire Turkish-Russian line. A bottle of kerosene is kept in the box to kindle warning flames in event of a raid. A Turkish sentry, bottle in hand, checks up on the fuel level, a daily routine.