National Geographic : 1955 May
parklike groves of trees. Wooded hills occasionally lifted in the background. The Nile flowed calm and slow. Jean and I stopped at native villages on the western banks and on the unpeopled eastern shore to photograph elephants (page 707). One huge tusker ob jected. He lashed the air with his trunk, enormous ears flapping angrily. Fi nally he charged me. I turned and ran, flinging my kayak into the river a scant few seconds be fore Jumbo thundered to the water's edge (page 712). Drums Boom as Africa Dances At Pakwach two husky Madi boatmen agreed to accompany us with their dugout as far as Nimule, on the Sudanese frontier 125 miles distant. We bought rice, eggs, ba nanas, and chickens, then set out again, Jean and I in the kayaks and Andre paddling the dugout with Okelo and Oliyo. Sleeping that night in our tent on a grassy knoll, we were awakened by the deep throb of drums. We got up and followed a trail to a small Madi village. There all the natives were leaping and cavorting in time to ca cophonous music put out by three drummers and a cymbalist. Our arrival cut short the festivities. The Swa hili greeting, "Jambo, sana, habari," seemed to put the men at ease, but scared women and chil dren edged away as we approached. After a brief palaver 709 W. Robert Moore, National Geographic Staff Nile Waters Thunder Down Narrow Murchison Falls Churned to froth in rock-studded rapids, the river drops 120 feet-the Vic toria Nile's only major waterfall. Mistlike spray veils the mossy cliffs.