National Geographic : 1955 May
706 -n, hl M . (:i -Wi.la Andre Davy, His Kayak Smashed, Rides Swampy Lake Kyoga in a Hollowed Tree Trunk Africans shared the expedition's adventurous spirit. For two khaki shirts, a txo-cell flashlight, and ,4.0 these Jaluo tribesmen paddled with the party 100 miles down the upper Nile; neither had previously ventured one-fifth as far. Capricious winds made the crude sail useless. A double-bladed aluminum paddle (foreground) flashes from the author's kayak. papyrus swamp to dry land. Our legs grew numb from inactivity. As we groped through the moonless night, we blundered into a herd of hippos. In the dark, it was an unnerving experience. Several of the big river horses came plunging and snorting after us. separating us temporarily. We came upon several Banyoro fishing camps on Lake Kyoga. Huts of woven papyrus stood about an open fire pit over hung with a platform for smoking the fish which are so important in the tribal diet. The fishermen greeted us cordially and in vited us to dinner. We would have said a polite goodbye and kept on paddling had we guessed what the piece de resistance would be. Fat roasted locusts! We gingerly tasted some well-cooked specimens and found them sur prisingly palatable. These people used grass baskets to scoop up gnats that swarmed in such clouds that we had to breathe through handkerchiefs. Pressed into little cakes, the gnats are dried and eaten. Termites, frightened out of their nests by pounding and then popped into boil ing water, are another favorite food. All of us learned not to examine menus critically, but just to be grateful for what was available. We arrived at Masindi Port exhausted from paddling against the wind. our constant foe throughout the trip. Prevailing from the north, it sprang upon us every dawn, develop ing in strength as the day progressed. It would have been much easier to hoist a sail and journey up the Nile from the Mediterranean. A little paddle-wheel steamer took Oumu and Gabrini and their dugout back to Nama sagali, thus saving them the long sail home. We watched our Gold Dust Twins go with regret, realizing that we were unlikely ever to see them again.