National Geographic : 1944 Sep
J.H.Ball Right Turn Quick! The Big Wave Is Starting to Curl Over Unless the rider can steer his board away in the nick of time, he will be caught in the tons of churning foam athis left. The maneuver isatricky feat for an expert; beginners confine their practice to small rollers. Waves come in cycles, getting bigger and bigger and ending inagiant. Surfers wait for these "clean up" waves.