National Geographic : 1948 May
Belfry of Bruges, Famed by Longfellow, Shines in Lace Lace began as a patch-in-time to save wear. This specimen was one of hundreds, some dating to 1599, shown at Bruges's 1947 exhibition of Belgian lace. Longfellow wrote: "In the market place of Bruges stands the belfry old and brown; thrice consumed and thrice rebuilded, still it watches o'er the town. As the summer morn was breaking, on that lofty tower I stood, and the world threw off its darkness, like the weeds of widowhood." If you haven't visited Brussels, go and see and lift the spirit for yourself. You will never forget it. XVI), at Louvain My favorite city is Bruges (Brugge)-once and at Malines (M a port, once a textile center, now a repository The archives of for one of the most interesting historical heri- tors before the wa tages on earth. If you like old buildings; if destroyed. Other you like quaint bridges and sleepy canals lost include the A (Plates VI, VII, XXIV); if you like lace, library of the U: produced by quick-fingered old women while stroyed also in Wo you watch (Plate I); if you like the timeless- with American aid ness of a bygone civilization projected into the present-then by all means don't miss Bruges. The estuary connecting Bruges with the sea The carillon at is filled with silt (Plate III); the textile indus- thrill to bells. B try has moved away; moss creeps through the The Nazis took ma cobblestoned streets, however, the unde Nevertheless, the city is far from dead. It ing many of them is a mellow place, and a wistful place, but celebrations, in rel the achievements of the past, which proclaim old repositories. themselves on every hand, shine through the Historical and r city's crumbly exterior with a light which will kermesses, are nur never be extinguished so long as man looks IX, X, XI, XXIII to the past for guidance to the future. *S If you haven't discovered it by now, this by William Gorham traveler is fond of Bruges! MAGAZINE, March, 1c at The aura of antiquity which hangs over Bruges is characteristic of Bel gium. There is an old restaurant in Antwerp which is popular with visiting gourmets. It is a charming place, with leaded windows and blackened rafters, pic turesquely located at the end of an ancient court yard. One day, after an excellent lunch, I asked the waiter when the res taurant was established. "In 1777," he replied. The manager, who was hovering near by, looked pained. "The correct date is 1774," he said. The waiter retired in some confusion. Where upon a slightly inebriated gentleman at the next table observed dryly: "It just goes to show how old the eating habit is." The Grand' Place in Brussels is, of course, a "must" for tourists, as is Rubens's house in Ant werp. There is also much to delight the eye Liege, at Tournai (Plate (Leuven), at Audenaarde, [echelen). Tournai, popular with visi r, unfortunately have been treasures which have been Abbey at Nivelles and the niversity of Louvain, de rld War I and reconstructed (Plate XVIII). and of Bells Malines will stir those who elgium is a land of bells.* ny away for melting down; rground succeeded in sav and eventually, amid great turning them to their age eligious festivals, known as merous in Belgium (Plates I). They are based on the vers of Holland and Belgium," Rice, NATIONAL GEOGRAPIIIC )25.