National Geographic : 1948 Nov
waist and hanging to his bony knees. In the pockets of his gold-cloth waistcoat he carried the ship's manifest and all her papers, together with all the letters, notes, and bills of health he ever re ceived. Beneath this coat he wore a Japanese singlet, co piously ventilated. Carries His Amber Rosary Ashore Ahmed kept his money belt lashed tightly about the waist. A small cap of white crochet was set far back on his head, and round this he bound his blue and gold tur ban. He had no shoes. When going ashore, he carried a rosary of amber beads. The nakhoda's disposition usually was placid, and his face knew more peace than some bishops'; but when ex cited he yelled at his crew in jerky sentences. His eldest son sailed with him. Four men and four boys comprised the rest of the crew. They included a Turk, who must have been over 70, and the nakhoda's Negro slave, who knew neither his age nor the country of his origin. Slavery did not trou ble the Negro; he prayed to Allah and seemed as content as any man aboard. Crew members regarded their fel low man's bondage with com placency. Day after day we wan dered northward past the Yemen shore.* Sometimes we landed for the night on a cay where piles of oysters lay opened for their pearls, and sting rays and sharks z scavenged the shallows. Sometimes we spoke to fishermen and bought a mess of fish for a handful of rice. Other dhows crossed our track, but no steamers; this was not their lane. * See "Yemen-Southern Ara- Like Monkeys in Treetops, Arabs Climb a 130-foot Yard bia's Mountain Wonderland," by Three tree trunks, lashed end to end, compose Bayan's lateen yard. Harlan B. Clark, NATIONAL GEO- These lashings and those on the sail provide precarious foothold. The GRAPHIC MAGAZINE, November, author tried this climb once, and once only. These men are unaware of 1947. such luxuries as ratlines for ease in "laying aloft."