National Geographic : 2010 Jul
• sweet tooth. On a Sunday a ernoon pilgrims were tossing candy onto the shrine's marble plaza, which was sticky with the evidence of their love. Men filed into the burial chamber to kiss the green cloth that covered the saint's sarcophagus. Sitting just outside was Ashran Bibi and her 25-year-old daughter. (As at most such shrines, women are barred from the tomb itself.) Bibi, a laborer's wife, explained that her daughter had su ered from breathing problems since eating pesticide in a suicide attempt. ey had traveled to the shrine three days earlier in hopes that Baba Farid could accomplish what doctors so far had not. "He has good access," Bibi said, waving her arm at the sky. "We bring our problems to him, and then he takes our problems to Allah." in the southern city of Bahawalpur, on the edge of Punjab's des- ert region, was not as friendly. As soon as we emerged from our vehicle, he brandished a pistol and made it clear that photographs were unwel- come. His reaction was no surprise. Madrassa Taleem ul-Quran is an Islamic seminary a liated with Jaish-e-Mohammed, an extremist group that Punjab was the richest and most bitterly contested prize, and the largest share was awarded to Pakistan amid a spasm of communal bloodletting.