National Geographic : 1934 Jul
MADEIRA THE FLORESCENT to enjoy the sea bath ing. The small, short horned sledge oxen of Funchal come from Porto Santo; so do the little white limestone pebbles which form the design on the black pavements of the Ave nida Arriaga and in many of the gardens. Porto Santo's chief interest, to me, lies in its association with the Great Admiral who gave to the Old World half a planet (see text, page 97, and illustra tion, page 104). My bedroom in Funchal opens on to a garden overhanging the sea. At dawn I step out and stand un der the palms by the vine - covered railing above the cliff, which is clothed with verdure to the pebbly shore. Across the pearly waters the horizon is broken by three purple islands: the lonely, un inhabited Desertas. In the center is Deserta Grande,with Bugio and THE DOG Chao on either side. Miscellaneous mon It is behind Bugio Funchal under a sign oughbreds are rarely that the sun rises, Usually one watches shafts of radiance now guards the house. piercing the gray sky. The new-born light touches the white sails of fishing boats far out from the shore. It is the beginning of another sun-drenched day. A PLEASANT LIFE FOR THE WINTER VISITOR On Deserta Grande there are wild goats, rabbits, and cats descended from animals brought long ago from Madeira. Colonies of sea birds frequent these shores; and in coastal caves the monk, or Mediterranean, seal is still to be found. The islands are the property of two British residents of Madeira, and sportsmen occasionally visit them to shoot the wild goats. Photograph by Wilhelm Tobien KET INTERESTS EVERYBODY BUT THE DOGS grels, a bit bored and sleepy, await a new master in (upper left) meaning "wholesale and retail." Thor seen, but every peasant has his faithful dog or two. s the owner's lunch while he works and the other A second uninhabited group of islands of the archipelago, three in number, the Salvages, lie more than 180 miles from Madeira, nearer the Canaries. In summer men sail to them to slaughter the shear water, a sea bird which nests in large num bers on these low-lying islets. The flesh, dried and salted, is eaten by the poorer classes in Madeira; the fat and down are also utilized. From Funchal to the near-by mountain village of Camacha the ascent is precipi tous. Once on the heights, we are among wide stretches of slim, planted pines, which furnish much of the fuel used in Funchal.