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National Geographic : 1908 May
Contents
THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE lake the wild ducks were so tame that they swam almost within reach. The village, set in its mass of verdure, sug gested a scene in Surrey, but the mina rets, the veiled women, and the little girls, with their hair and hands dyed with the all-popular henna, reminded us that we were still in the East. Market day brought into the open market place country people from all the surrounding farms and hills. Every one had something to sell and to buy. The pottery man's wares, designed for house hold utensils, were popular with the housewives and gave a lovely splash of green and gold to that part of the square. All sorts of grain and seeds were for sale in loosely woven baskets, while the sheep and goats had an entire plateau to them selves. Several itinerant traders were doing a lively business in bright glass beads among the younger women, who make them into belts and other dress trimmings, while strung on wire they were bought in the form of bracelets and necklaces. The peasants were quite as much inter ested in us as we were in their costumes, and much friendliness prevailed, smiles and pats on the shoulder taking the place of words. Screwing up our courage, we tackled a dark young beauty, smoking a cigarette with a charmingly nonchalant air, and asked her if she would be willing to sell her belt and apron. She was at first too astonished and amused to answer, but finally coyly consented. A friend came up to see what was happening, this one a handsome blonde, her husband in tow. She was also willing to sell any part of her costume, and promptly began such an alarming unfastening that we hastily suggested the garments could be delivered later. Soon the fame of the crazy "Herr schaften," who were willing to pay good money for old clothes, spread through the country-side, and before long the space outside the inn was crowded with what the distracted proprietor called "ein Jahrmarkt." Crowds of peasants were displaying their wares and good na turedly trying to oust each other, while one woman, we were sure, was offering her baby as an extra inducement to the collector, as we called the gentleman of our party. Aside from the amusement, it was rather pathetic to see how much a little ready money meant for these hard working, honest souls, who would tramp hours with bits of their finery, embroid ered garments, and fine old brass orna ments to sell them to us for a few kronen. On a showery morning we drove off from Jayce, our plunder following in a second carriage; our drivers, two gay young Moslems, who entertained us vastly with their wild bursts of song, by chaffing every one on the road, and by flirting outrageously with all the peasant women we met. The way lay through magnificent scenery, past scattered settle ments and lonely haus, where we always halted for the inevitable coffee, the charm of the East lying over all until we drove into the district town of Banja luka. Here, after a night spent in lodg ings off the stable yard, the inn being full, we started by rail back to common place Europe. In a few hours we were out of Bosnia. The East, its scenery, mystery, and costumes were left behind; the crown lands of Hungary through which we passed seemed worthless in comparison and the every-day life to which we were returning remarkably tame. 338
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