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National Geographic : 1910 Nov
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GLIMPSES OF KOREA AND CHINA pounded the wet garments placed on smooth stones. On one of these occa sions, in the same stream a short dis tance from this jolly crowd, were others rinsing and trimming cabbages and other vegetables, preparing them for market. On the same sewer, a little farther on, was a poultry market, with numbers of crates of fowls, close to the water. We wondered how clothes could be made so white under such conditions. The religious uplift of Korea has been almost phenomenal. Based on the latest reports of the results of missionary ef forts, comparatively speaking, it leads the world. If the Christian workers whom it was our good fortune to meet in this field are indicative of the devo tion and aggressiveness of the others, and if they are aided in the future by the more liberal support of Christians, which the past success of the work warrants, it seems reasonable to expect the won derful results begun will continue beyond all precedence. At the service which we attended in the Methodist Episcopal Church the edi fice was filled to the doors. On one side of the center aisle sat the men in white, all wearing the peculiar little hats; the opposite side was occupied by women with heads uncovered, many of them gowned in different shades of green, with red waists or jackets. The space in front and at each side of the preacher, extend ing about ten feet, was filled with chil dren, sitting on the floor. During the prayers the women turned in their seats and knelt. In this church the curtain, which for years hung in the center aisle to shield the women from the scrutiny of the men, had been removed at their suggestion two years before. The pastor, a native, distantly related to the royal family, is said to be a very talented and forceful preacher. A visit to the imperial palace, although unoccupied, was interesting. The build ings and grounds are extensive; a hand some pagoda standing on a small island is surrounded by a lotus pond, a wealth of trees adding to the beauty of the place. During the reign of the old emperor, his fear of assassination was so great that it is said 300 bed-rooms in the palace were kept constantly in readiness for him, no one knowing which one he would occupy on any night. One of the most enjoyable trips from Seoul is by rickshaw past the Peking or Independent Gate through a picturesque road winding among the mountains. The construction of the great wall of Korea at this point appears a marvel of engineer ing skill, so seemingly inaccessible is this mountain fastness. Proceeding about two miles, we pass the water-gate, where the wall crosses the river and where in time of attack the iron gates in these great arches were let down to protect the city. The view of this crossing is one of the finest in Korea. Another ride of three miles brings us to the White Buddha. In the solitude of this wilderness, far from the highway, close beside a clear mountain stream, stands a great granite boulder, on the face of which, carved in relief, is the sitting figure of Buddha. Above is a curved roof of the pagoda style, with elaborately carved cornice decorated in high colors. Every three years the out lines of the idol are given a coat of white paint, with a delicate moustache, ears, etc., in red to give it character. In front of the idol was a little shrine on which stood a lantern. Enterprising shop-keepers in Seoul evinced their desire for English trade by signs, some of which were full of detail: "Handkerchief s p e c i a occupation," "Copper, iron, lead and repaired store," "Broker for several kinds of manure," "Wild silk," "Cow meat," "Firm and without fade at bedyed for many colors," are self-explanatory. Over a drugstore was, "Every medi cine is required- for small or wholesale," followed by the assurance that "all kinds of sickness must be examined or cured," while hanging in the window of a vacant building was the announcement, "To sell apply within next door." The raincoat used by the Korean peas ant and farmer is in shape a long cloak 927
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