National Geographic : 1916 Sep
Photograph by Frederick Moore REFRESHMENTS IN SALONIKI "As I listened to Mr. Black Eyebrow, looking about me at the red fezzes, the white skull caps, the fur robes, and all the other variants of the Saloniki scene . .. I began to understand . . . why the equilibrium of races in Macedonia is so difficult to bring about" (see text, page 232). them in roofed or awninged thorough fares, into which the AEgean sunlight picturesquely drips. A CONGRESS OF NATIONS Little is Latin there. To loiter among the booths of the bazaar, to explore the busy squares and markets beyond it, to stroll in the crowded Street of the Var dar, or to idle among the coffee-houses of its western end, is to take in something of the Macedonian question. Fur robes and green pigtails are only incidents among many. Sedate red fezzes come and go. Tall Albanians, variously braided ac cording to their tribes and wearing a white skull-cap on one ear, stalk through the crowd with that lordly swing of theirs. Bulgarians, less lordly, but no less in different to the opinion of the world at large, mind their own business in brown home-spun. Kilted Greek peasants in tight white trousers tasseled under the knee, booted Montenegrins with hanging sleeves, lend the scene an operatic air. Women in hats, women in kerchiefs, women in embroideries that you want to buy off their backs-and sometimes do! women in the Turkish domino, offer a complete exhibition of Balkan fashions. Beyond the Street of the Vardar the Turkish quarter begins. Saloniki is nat urally less of a Turkish town than it was, when the Turks stood second and the Greeks third in the roll of the local babel. But while they have now changed places the fez still adds a very appreciable note to the color of Saloniki. While Jews and Christians, too, live in this part of the city, the higher you climb the better you might imagine yourself to be in Stamboul. There are more stone houses, and some of them are unfamil iarly frescoed on the outside. The win dows, though, are latticed, as they should be. There is a good deal of decorative iron work about them.