National Geographic : 1925 Feb
CAIRO TO CAPE TOWN, OVERLAND them off to the coast under the whip. 'lhey never returned. These flagrant slave raids brought Liv ingstone to L'jiji, a short distance to the west, and Stanley ultimately to find Liv ingstone. A II OT'L IPROPRIETOR IN TII'; ROLE OF P11 ILOSOI'II R ANI) PIILANTHIROPIST Disinterested persons told us the gen tleman who operated the Kaiserhof Hotel lost double his overhead expenses each month. lie was a Greek, a philanthro pist and a philosopher as well. All in 'Tahora spoke well of him. I e deserved it. \\e shall always remember him as a kindly, generous - spirited man, who sought to make his hotel something more than a halting place in a country of dis comn forts. ()ne of the British majors in Tabora invited us to his home to dine with cer tain of his associates. There we observed a splendid example of how the IBritisher upholds civilization in the jungle. Once seated at his dining table, with its linen and silver and fine glassware, well-cooked food, and excellent service, one might have been dining in London. We were amused by a yarn one of the officers told us at dinner: "The way to catch a lion is to catch him by the tail, and, catlike, he will try to pull away. Then, when le is pulling and straining, have some one come up and spear him. "That is the way the natives do it. Try it on your house cat. If the theory is correct, then try it on a lion." \Ve promised to try it on the very next lion we met. A VISIT TO THE WHITE FATHERS Sunday afternoon we called on the White Fathers. The bishop in charge re ceived and entertained us. These White Lathers come out to Africa as volunteers for life. Other white men go home on a vacation once in a year, or once in two years, but the White Fathers stay till they die. Men of all faiths in Africa speak well of them and their work. The bishop had served 28 years with only one trip home. Once, 20 years be fore, after recurring attacks of the deadly black-water fever, they carried him back to Europe on a stretcher This dreaded black-water fever usually follows a succession of attacks of the ordinary malarial fever. Those who con tract it rarely survive. The head house of the White Fathers in Tabora was a bare and barren place inside, but outside a bower of growing things. Here they most emphatically dis proved the theory that this or that cannot be grown successfully in equatorial Af rica. The bishop pointed out 17 kinds of roses in a country which the armchair agriculturists say "will grow nothing." All the flowers, and dates, mangoes, pa paws, oranges, pineapples, coconuts, lemons, and goodness knows what not, were there in profusion. Behind the main buildings was located the most tragic settlement one ever cast eyes upon-the incurables, isolated in grass huts, waiting to die. Most of them were women, with all the horrible dis eases imaginable, including leprosy. Some were very close to death as we viewed them. TIIi RIBS OF AFRICA'S TIMP1RF1CT RAILROAD S KELETIoN Sixty-seven people are said to have been killed by lions in the Tabora district during the same year that we walked from Mwanza to Tabora. The preceding six months, bounty had been paid on the carcasses of more than 300 lions and 8oo leopards. Elephants and elands had played havoc with native crops. ()ne elephant can ruin a banana plantation in one night. These were the grim statistics that lurked behind the adventure of our walk. From Tabora we traveled to Kigoma on the Dar-es Salaam railway, which operates from the seacoast to Lake Tan ganyika. This railway and the line from Mombasa inland to Lake Victoria are two ribs of a most imperfect skeleton. Rhodes' imaginary north-and-south All Red Route was to be the spinal column. The Belgians have another broken rib reaching in through the Congo toward the same missing backbone. When we left, the Tabora majors and their friends, the hotel proprietor, and, lastly, the bishop of the White Fathers. came down to the station to say good-bye and good luck. The bishop presented us with a snapshot of himself.