National Geographic : 1928 Jul
UNSPOILED CYPRUS A SMILE LIGHTENS A HEAVY LOAD Under such conditions of back-breaking toil from sunrise to dark, it is little wonder that few Cypriote women can keep alive the Aphrodite tradition. Kalopanayiotis. One scrambles down into a narrow valley where the village women wash their laundry by pressing it between their bare feet instead of rubbing it in their hands, and just across the small stream is a huddle of monastic buildings, with the roof of the largest raised at one end as if covering the gridiron of a theater. The first chapel is Greek, with a Byzan tine dome lost under a timbered gable roof which was added later. Its walls are alive with pictures, but since the light was re flected into the somber cavern from a pocket mirror and I dared not use flash powder, they doubtless await a more suc cessful reproduction. The ceiling of the Latin chapel looks as if it were painted yesterday. The Apostles, framed in gold, stand out from a back ground of blue in which cherubim of sa tanic red look placidly out from within their wheeling wings. There are other things in Cyprus be sides churches, but there is no more com- manding feature in the lives of the people. They plow their fields, pick their carobs, gather their olives, graze their placid sheep and destructive goats, raise their oranges, lemons, and pomegranates, tend their vines and bottle their wines with the church as their mental and physical back ground. Back-breaking toil serves only to win a day of rest more continuous than that which is frequently spent in the coffeehouse, amid the chatter of the ba zaar, or in the harvest fields. Irreligion is not evident. Religiously, too, Cyprus is unspoiled. BIG INDUSTRY IS SMALL IN CYPRUS Big industry in Cyprus is small. A British company mining for chrysotile asbestos is scarring with slag dumps a whole facade of Troodos. - The American copper company, whose engines awakened a nostalgia that was a mystery until I traced it to the locomotive bell; a silk fila ture at Paphos, and some cigarette fac tories about complete the list.