National Geographic : 2004 Dec
SITATUNGA(TRAGELAPHUSSPEKEII.BELOW IN THE CROCODILE'S LAIR, photographer Jennifer Hayes explores caverns formed by floating mats of papyrus in the deep waters of the Ncamasere channel in the Panhandle (above). Croc tracks were everywhere, says guide Brad Bestelink (below), examining the remains of a big male sitatunga. Bestelink pioneered diving in the Okavango's clear, croc-infested waters, counting on cool winter temperatures to keep the reptiles lethargic. "Any other time," he says, "we'd be lunch."